![]() Before trying to beef up the apparent mass of your anvil, try to get a little more blacksmithing experience. Some basics of material science physics that apply to this issue With enough mass the anvil could be mounted on a beach ball and serve our purpose, but lacking a larger starting mass, for some uses and improvised patterns there could be advantages transferring the force to a larger mass This will speed the deformation into each other. It would be worth while to cinch down the anvil to whatever base mass is employed limiting bounce, periodically re-tightening. In short more micro peaks get crushed together increasing the total interface contact. Eventually the surfaces will deform into each other, but the flatter to start the more rapidly that will happen.Īnother consideration again relates to heat transfer, the greater the pressure across an interface the more heat or in our case force can be transfered. While that approach makes some sense for making high accuracy machinery, for an anvil seat interface its overkill. The next best bet is to transfer the force across a molecular discontinuity, for that the greater the contact area between the two surfaces the better, which generally means very flat, which is where the hand scraper comes in (and the process they employ for surface plates) Ideally you'd mechanically grind and lap to as flat as possible then true. While its possible with a big enough drop hammer to forge weld an added base to an anvil (provided the anvil itself is strong enough to take the force) at that point you can simply make a bigger forged anvil I mentioned before that the best solution is a continuous molecular matrix, that is in fact what my anvil is, Its a 1844 William Foster and was originally forged in several pieces then forge welded together. However, its possible to keep that in mind when using an augmented or improvised anvil, while there is no substitute for the right tool, generally a substitute is better than no tool at all. Without a proportionally larger dimension to the heel and horn, and some sort of give to the anvil mount, at some measure of force they will fail since they are cantilevered. Jayco has a very good point about the design weakness of the typical London Pattern. I've been given a "good" (hopefully) anvil, I just need to go to TN to pick it up. If anything it will be more detrimental with the extra mass underneath. What I did want to say is I agree with you, adding weight under the anvil is no reason to use too big a hammer on the anvil. It's not tied down well, and I haven't tried it without the plate, so I can't comment. ![]() Pretty much a noob, but my anvil is a piece of rail (given to me with a sorta "anvil" shape) on a fish plate. If I want heavier I go to a 3 pound double faced engineer's hammer. I use "my hammer", the same one almost always. I use mostly a 2 1/2 pound crosspein, if I go to a ballpein they are all progressively lighter than that.Īlso I must admit if I go from the 269 pound anvil to the 92 I don't change hammers. Quality, welding and other anvil miscellaneaĢ006 - 2012 Jock Dempsey, Copyright © 1998, 2023 anvilfire.I recall seeing here somewhere on IFI the technique of placing a thick plate of steel beneath an anvil to increase mass.Ĭould someone who has done this weigh in on the pros/cons of this?Ĭommon sense tells me that putting say an additional 50 pounds under a 92 pound english pattern Peter Wright does not give me full writ to ignore the 2% rule or 3 % rule, or whatever it specifically is ( not using too heavy a hammer and result in damage to the anvil) but will I see better rebound, better overall performance?.The set of weights would never have more than a total of 27 in pounds, only 3 quarter hundred weights and as many hundred weights as needed.Ī pounds weight set without duplicates or extras would be composed of: The system seems unweildly but if you use a balance scale and the proper weights you just count the large weights, and total up the small ones and you are done. This calculator does not have a place for tonnes. 2240 pounds (20 CWT) and over is a "long tonne".The last (right hand) position is pounds and must be equal to 27 or less.If it looks like a five then it is a two or a three. The middle position equals quarters (1/4) of a hundred weight.Any position can be zero, and IF zero is marked with a zero character (0).Where the base unit is a hundredweight (CWT or 112 pounds) which is divided into quarter hundredweights, stones and pounds.Ĭommonly used to mark anvil weights before the adoption of the metric system in Great Britain.Įnter digits from your anvil or other object
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